University
of Vermont Extension
Dr. Leonard P. Perry, Extension Professor
Put as little as possible into the local
landfill. Recycle cardboard, cans, and compostable materials.
Wash and reuse plastic pots, or return them to your local garden store for
their use if they have such a program (if not, perhaps you might encourage them
to do so). Using clay pots, where possible, avoids using plastic pots
originally derived from fossil fuels.
Start a compost pile. Add to
your compost grass clippings, dead leaves, plant residues, and other organic
matter. Add vegetable kitchen scraps, but not meat scraps. Use the
compost to enrich the soil and to improve plant growth. Make sure you
turn the pile often, and add the right proportion of ingredients (carbon and
nitrogen sources), to ensure you get good quality compost.
Use alternative controls for pests and
diseases. These might include biological organisms. The pesticide Bt,
made from a bacterium that attacks specific caterpillars, is a good example.
Mechanical controls include such methods as picking off beetles, and trapping
slugs under boards or in beer. Cultural controls include more spacing to
promote air circulation and reduced disease, or even proper mowing to lessen
turfgrass diseases.
Apply pesticides and other horticultural
chemicals only as a last resort. When using, use them prudently, read
all label precautions and follow label directions. Scout your susceptible
plants at least weekly for pests, and deal with them before they get out of
control. Realize that pests in low levels may do little harm.
Diseases may be a result of poor culture. Look for disease resistant
varieties. When using chemicals, choose least toxic ones. A
diversity of plants, even some weeds, can promote beneficial insects.
Using pesticides may kill them.
Store any pesticides properly, and
dispose of old ones or empty containers safely. Keep them in areas or
cabinets where children and pets can’t get at them, or spill them by
accident. Have materials such as kitty litter and plastic bags handy in
case they do spill. Check with local waste disposal facilities on proper
handling to dispose of old chemicals and empty containers.
Use cover crops and mulches instead of
herbicides. Minimizing tilling of soil and disturbance, or using
no-till, will keep weed seeds from reaching the surface where they germinate in
the light. Cover crops and organic mulches keep weeds down, as well as
adding valuable organic matter to soils. Synthetic weed barriers are good
around annuals, trees, and some shrubs, but not perennials (they keep them from
their natural spreading). Keep in mind some of these fabrics need mulch
on top to keep them from breaking down in sunlight.
Help your landscape reduce carbon dioxide in the
atmosphere. This is the gas cited as responsible for
global warming. Plants take this from
the air and hold onto it, or “sequester” it into other compounds. This carbon is then held as organic
matter. Methods have been already
mentioned that help this process. Using
cover crops adds to the amount of plant material that can trap the carbon. Adding plant residues to soil, or even
composting first before adding, traps this carbon. Not tilling the soil keeps this carbon there,
not in the atmosphere. Carbon is
released back to the atmosphere both through soil disturbance, resulting in it
being oxidized, or loss through runoff on slopes.
Use fertilizers only as needed.
Use organic forms if possible and available. Good compost and organic
matter in soils lessens the need for fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers
can add pollution to waterways if overused, and require fossil fuels to
manufacture. The natural gas used to manufacture 200 bags of lawn
fertilizer would heat an average home for a year. Each 40-pound bag of
fertilizer contains the fossil-fuel equivalent of 2.5 gallons of
gasoline. Get a soil test kit from your local Extension service
office. Test your soil yearly if possible, and different areas of your
landscape if they have different crops and culture. You may find you need
to add little if any fertilizer, or only certain ones.
Mow properly.
This means regular as needed, and high (two to three inches). During
summer when soil is moist and grass is growing, you may need to mow twice a week.
However, I often see many still mowing as much during dry periods when grass
isn’t growing. Then you may get by with mowing every 10 to 14 days.
Mowing high keeps grass less stressed, resulting in fewer if any chemicals for
problems and maintenance. Leaving grass clippings recycles organic matter
and nutrients back to the soil. If you do collect grass clippings, add
them to your compost.
Develop a landscape plan to minimize
mowing. Even making curved edges to beds, rather than sharp corners,
and avoiding cul-de-sacs of lawn will minimize mowing. Large areas under
trees are often better suited to massed groundcover plants than lawns.
Leave large sunny areas that aren’t heavily used unmowed, or mow only once or
twice a season. Consider adding wildflower meadows, keeping in mind these
can be difficult to get established and last long term.
Use “green” tools and equipment.
If you can use a rake or broom or hand edgers, avoid the power blowers and
string trimmers. This gives you exercise as a benefit, and for the
environment lessens the use of fossil fuels, air pollution, and noise
pollution. If a small lawn, consider an electric or even reel push
mower. If you have an older lawn mower, upgrade to a newer one if
feasible as these pollute less. Keep in mind the pollution from one hour
of lawn mowing has been equated to driving a car 100 to 200 miles. An
estimate from
Conserve water. Water may
become a key crisis of this century. Almost three dozen states currently
experience at least some water shortages. Use mulches to conserve
water. Soils with lots of organic matter require less water. In
very dry areas, plant drought tolerant or xeriscape plants. Use trickle
or drip water systems, and only as needed. Overhead watering can waste up
to half the water just to evaporation into the air.
Install a rain garden. These
are gardens designed to capture storm water runoff, preventing it from entering
waterways before sediment has been filtered out. Up to 70 percent of
pollution in our waterways in some areas has been attributed to storm
water. Rain gardens allow sediment and contaminants to settle out before
the water moves on. Clay soils are not good for these, sandy soils being
ideal. A mix of native perennials and shrubs can make such gardens quite
lovely. Keep them watered until established, and weeded, as you would
other gardens.
Choose landscape plants and plans to
minimize maintenance. Allow shrubs to grow natural, and choose ones
for shapes desired. This will lessen or avoid trimming (usually done with
electric or gas-powered hedge trimmers.) Avoid planting trees and shrubs
that will shed leaves where not desired, so will need removing (such as with
leaf blowers). Choosing the right plants for the right site can avoid
excess use of fertilizers and soil amendments.
Use landscaping to reduce home energy
use. Shade trees have been estimated to reduce energy used for air
conditioning by 15 to 50 percent. The net cooling effect of a young,
healthy tree equals ten room-size air conditioners operating 20 hours a
day. Ground temperatures can drop by 36 degrees in as little as five
minutes when shaded. Deciduous trees, those that lose their leaves in
winter, shade homes in summer and allow warming from sun in winter.
Evergreens planted on windy sides of buildings act as a windbreak, reducing
winter heating bills up to 25 percent. Keep in mind accessories
too. Use solar-powered lights for night lighting, for instance.
Create wildlife habitats and food
sources with your landscaping. For food plants choose plants to
provide seeds, berries, nectar, nuts, fruits, sap, or even pollen. For
water, provide a bird bath (even one heated in winter), a small water feature
or water garden, and even shallow water puddles for butterflies. For
cover, provide evergreens, dense shrubs, thickets, wood or rock piles, a wooded
area, and groundcovers. A diversity of plants and habitats is ideal.
Plant trees. In one year, an
average tree produces enough oxygen for a family of four. One tree will
absorb the carbon dioxide from four cars, every year. Planting trees
remains the cheapest and most effective means of drawing excess carbon dioxide
from the atmosphere. Trees also reduce energy use around buildings as already
cited.
University of Vermont Extension and U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating, offer education and employment to everyone without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital or familial status.
Prepared 01/08