University of Vermont Extension
Department of Plant and Soil Science
Summer News
Article

GROWING AND USING CABBAGE AND KALE
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont
Most think of cabbage and kale merely as
vegetables, but they make great garden annuals as well for their fall
foliage. For these various uses, the
National Garden Bureau has named them vegetables of the year for 2007, and has
provided some interesting information and cultural tips.
Cabbage and kale grow best in cooler
weather, so usually are seen in gardens early or late in the season. For fall harvest, sow seeds in July or buy
seedlings in August. Mature plants with
ornamental leaves can be found in late August and September at many garden
centers. These combine well with fall
mums. If buying mature plants, look for
ones with leaves to their base. Ones
with tall stems and no leaves, a tree effect, are signs the plant didn’t get
enough water or fertilizer.
When buying seedlings or mature plants,
look under the leaves and along the stem for any sign of insects or insect
damage, especially aphids. If you see small white moths with a black dot on
their wings hovering, these are likely cabbage moths, which lay their eggs on
the plants; don’t buy these plants. Avoid rootbound plants or ones with roots
hanging out the bottom of the pot or cell pack.
Set the plants at least 12 inches apart;
space rows 24 to 36 inches apart, depending on the variety. To get the plants
off to a good start and encourage root development, pour in one cup of a
soluble starter fertilizer (diluted according to package directions) to each
planting hole before
filling
it in. To avoid cutworm damage, place a tuna fish or cat food can (with top and
bottom removed) halfway into the soil around stems to act as a collar for the
seedling plant.
Keep plants lightly moist. This is
especially important for plants started in the summer for fall and winter
harvest. Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown, or
foliar feed every three weeks. Mulch with one to two inches of organic matter,
keeping the mulch an inch away from the stem of the plant. Mulching helps keep
the soil moist, feeds the plants, and controls weeds. Irrigation is especially
important to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of
summer, and to supply the developing heads with sufficient water to develop
quickly.
Among the most common pests are aphids
and cabbage loopers. The small white moths in the gardens lay eggs that turn
into cabbage loopers. Cover the plants with screening or floating row cover to
prevent this. Control aphids by spraying with frequent hard blasts of water;
try spraying with insecticidal soap or hot pepper spray.
You
can harvest cabbage anytime after the heads form. Cut the heads when they are
solid (firm to pressure) but before they crack or split. Springy heads are not
mature. Store late fall or winter
cabbage for several months in humid conditions as close to freezing as
possible. Store only disease-free heads. Pull out the cabbages and hang in a
moist cellar, roots and all, or cut heads, remove loose outer leaves and spread
one layer deep on shelves or pallets in a moist root cellar.
Pick outer leaves of kale as you need
them and plants will keep producing new inner leaves. Harvest when leaves are
large enough for intended use. Tender young leaves are best for salad, older
leaves for cooking. Frost improves the flavor of kale. Mature plants survive to
ten degrees F or below. Mark the site so you can find the fresh greens under
the snow.
Dark
green leafy cabbage is high in Vitamin C, iron, and folate. Cabbage also
contains beta-carotene, potassium, and phyto-chemicals, such as
glucosinolates—proven to reduce cancer, especially lung cancer. The pale center
leaves are much less nutritious. Avoid overcooking as this depletes the
nutritional content. Raw red, green, or Savoy
cabbage has about 20 calories a cup, or cooked it is 30 calories. Chinese cabbage is only 11 calories a cup raw
or 15 cooked, and is higher in Vitamin C than the other cabbages.
Whether raw or cooked, kale is a low
calorie, high nutrition leafy green. A cup of raw kale has 60 calories; cooked
it is 48 calories. Even cooked, where it can lose one-third or more of its
nutritive value, a cup of kale provides the minimum daily requirement of
Vitamins A and C and 13 percent of the calcium requirement. A good source of
glucosinolates, Vitamin E, and manganese, kale is used as a green vegetable,
steamed and served with butter or vinegar, or in soups. Unfortunately, kale is
often used in salad bars as the decoration covering the ice rather than as a
selection on its own.
Consider adding cabbage and kale to your
vegetable or flower garden, or both, this year.
You’ll have a nutritious crop, and the ornamental-leaved varieties last
well into late fall, through frosts and even light snow.
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